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Return to Sony Gallery main page More essays on Van-Leo: Master Cairo Portrait Photographer by Barry Iverson, a founding member of the Sony Gallery International Advisory Board (catalog essay from “Van-Leo: A Moveable Feast”) Van-Leo: The Truth of Glamour by Nigel Ryan (catalog essay from the “Glamour as Genre” exhibition) Van-Leo: The Chronology by Veronica Rodriguez Van-Leo's Unrivaled Images of Cairo's Belle Epoch by Fatma Bassiouni Sitting It Out by Nigel Ryan Van-Leo: Portraits of Glamour by Pierre Gazio |
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The Portraits of Van-Leo | ||
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Van-Leo, The Discipline of a Rebel by Akram Zaatari, the Arab Image Foundation Van-Leo's work raises several questions regarding an artist's working method and relationship with socio-political powers. These are the two axes around which I would like to discuss Van-Leo's work, having some questions in mind, questions that relate mainly to the appreciation of photography in the Arab world. Why is Van-Leo's work important? Is it because he photographed important people like Dalida, Sherihan, Roushdi Abaza, Shadi Abdel Salam, Youssef Sebai, Taha Hussein, and others? Then is good photography about taking photographs of important people? Stars? Is it because he took "nice" portraits of men and women and made them look "good," more beautiful than they would expect themselves to be? Then is good photography about making people look good? Is it because he did successful compositions with shade and light? Then can good photography be restricted to a perfection of a predetermined aesthetic model? Would photography become a formula? When I sat down behind my video camera, right in front of Van-Leo, I didn't ask any of these questions. Instead, I asked him about the earliest childhood memory he recalls. I thought he was a photographer who is interested in capturing images, moods, creating atmospheres that are close to fiction, a photographer who spent fifty years of his life practicing his work in the same studio, same location, looking out through his window to see the street changing, in a time when Egyptian politics, demographics, social customs were changing too. I was sure someone like him would have something to tell. To answer my question, Van-Leo described, in detail, how he was running in the schoolyard in Zagazig, chased by the other kids. He described the scene with much detail. I could see little Levon as a six-year-old boy, running in the schoolyard, kids running after him, and the teacher says: "Go catch Levon, he picked the sponge." He looked at me and said very happily: "I was running and no one was able to catch me." Van-Leo is still running with that sense of insecurity, almost with a feeling of persecution that never left either the man or the photographer. Instead, it lived inside of him until this day and manifested itself in the decisions he made in his life and his work. Van-Leo felt totally on the margin of society in art and culture. He had interests that were different than others'. Furthermore, he never married, and didn't want to lead a conventional life. He came from an Armenian family which settled in Egypt in 1924, when he was 4 years old. His first contact with photography must have been through Varjabedian, an Armenian photographer who photographed him as a child in Zagazig and who was also a close friend of his parents. Van-Leo's family moved to Cairo in the thirties, where he entered the American University in 1940, but soon left it to work with photographer Artinian in Studio Venus. There he learned how to operate lighting but learned also that Artinian used to light all his portraits in a systematic way. In this Van-Leo noticed a lack of studying the face of every individual. He thought of the human face as a unique landscape that possesses unique characteristics for which light needs to be designed. This is why, a year later, he decided to open a studio with his brother Angelo, but having no access to financial resources, the two brothers based themselves in their parents' apartment. Differences between them led to their constant disagreement, which characterized their brotherhood and which still does until this day. Angelo was very good at public relations, whereas Van-Leo was satisfied spending all his time in his studio and in the darkroom. He admired the work of Alban, who was also an Armenian photographer from an older generation, and used to visit his showcase often, eager to look at new photographs. Unlike other photographers from the same period, especially Alban, Van-Leo was still doing this purely technical work until the last days of his career. He refused to delegate technical work to any assistant. He did the lighting of the scene according to the face, which he gave the highest importance. He exposed the photograph himself, processed the negative, enlarged it, mixed the chemicals, processed the print, did the necessary retouching, and sometimes did the hand coloring. The only elements of the work he didn't do were probably appointment taking and house cleaning. He is an individualist to an extreme. There are multiple reasons why Van-Leo's work was different, ever since the beginning of his career in the early forties. He had an experimental attitude that was very rare at the time, and perhaps is still rare among photographers in the Arab world. Back in the 1940s, Van-Leo took more than four hundred self-portraits, disguised as four hundred different characters. There has not been anything like this quantity in the history of photography in the Middle East. From a critical perspective, it doesn't matter if he dressed himself up as a corpse, as a prisoner, as an inspector, as a woman, with his head shaven, etc., as the intention here is not to psychologically analyze the photographer's position in all of these. The importance remains that Van-Leo used photography to display multiple images of himself, assuming different identities. At a time when nationalism was close to rising in Egypt, Van-Leo was plotting, encouraging, and promoting that multiplicity in the look (people's façades, people's landscape), as well as in people's ethnic and religious backgrounds. He is the antithesis of nationalism, even in a period when such slogans were prominent at every occasion. Yet Van-Leo was not militant, but was an introvert who believed in his ideas and his work. This is how it survived to mark the history of photography in Egypt and the Arab world. Van-Leo always refused to run after people in power in order to photograph them. He criticized photographers who often sought publicity, associating their names with the king or the president, and therefore giving themselves titles such as "photographer of his majesty the king" or "photographer of the court," as did Riad Shehata, as an example. Van-Leo even refused references to previous photographers in his title, as did Artinian at Studio Venus who used to sign "Successor of Hanselmann." For him photography is "mazag," an Arabic word that means producing for the desire of producing, and not responding to a commission, just like what musicians would say about music. If he likes a model, he asks him or her for extra poses free of charge. His clients were artists, casino dancers, singers, writers, famous and ordinary people. Van-Leo is a disciplined rebel. He held on to his convictions, but as reaction to a time of little tolerance, he burned many nudes he had taken in the forties and fifties-a self-destructive act that reminds me of what he did in his childhood days, when his father got him sandals when he wanted shoes. He protested by pretending to go to school. He went but imprisoned himself underground waiting for the kids to finish their classes to go back home with them. Nobody knew about his absence, and nobody witnessed his protest. Roland Barthes once said that portraits are a combination of three elements, first of which is the subject itself, the person in portraiture. The second element is the photographer's vision of that subject, how he/she sees or imagines the person in portraiture. As an example, an athlete comes to be photographed, and Van-Leo decides to make him pose as Rodin's "Thinker." The third element is the mask, i.e., what the subject wants to look like in front of the photographer, how the subject wants the photographer to make his picture. I will give the case of Miss Nadia Abdel Wahed as an example. She came to Van-Leo's studio wanting to be photographed stripping until she gets completely naked. That's what she wants herself to look like. When she got completely naked Van-Leo gave her a balloon to hold. The result is a photograph that has the three elements. That brings us back to our questions. In my opinion, Van-Leo's importance lies in the fact that he succeeded in capturing the dynamics of those elements because he treated photography as a stage set, and designed his photographs accordingly. The people he photographed belong to a world that is partially his, as if they were actors in a film, which makes his work closer to cinema. Maybe Van-Leo was provoked by my video camera. He came up with a great comparison between black and white photography and the profession of the traditional tailor, which are both dying because of new technology, because of mass production. But he added that a photograph preserves its utility much longer than a costume, at least for the entire life of whomever it refers to. Yet the popular taste in Egypt, in his opinion, doesn't care anymore for black and white photography. (Nor does anybody in the Arab world.) He adds that all they see in a photograph, all they look for, is the color. He said to me: "If I could go back in time, I wouldn't have chosen to become photographer." But he added: "although I love my work." But art in his opinion lies somewhere else. It is the lighting, the frame, the set, the pose, even the print, the retouching. For him art and craft are inseparable. This is a quality we find a lot among photographers in the Arab world. Van-Leo separated from his brother in the late forties and settled down in the same studio where he worked for 50 years, and where I met him in 1998. He was charming like a little boy, speaking so vividly about his childhood memories. He was angry when he spoke about Egypt, about Nasser, and about photography. Angelo had to leave when his French wife was asked to leave after nationalization in 1956, but regrets it now when there is no way to return back home. Contrary to this, Van-Leo believes he himself should have gone to France and never come back. Egypt, in his opinion, did not give him the recognition he deserves. He went for a short period to France in the sixties, but decided to return back home a year later. He didn't want to leave his studio, which was home for him. As much as he loved being in Egypt, he was bothered by the transformations that led to the emigration of the British, French, Greek, Jewish, and Italian communities who had settled there since the 19th century and had given Egypt its reputation as the cosmopolitan center of the Middle East. He recalls that his father spoke seven languages, Armenian at home, Turkish with visiting members of the family, Greek with owners of grocery stores, English at work since he used to work for a British company, Arabic on the street, besides French and Italian. Unfortunately, things now are not like they used to be. He cited an old expression, which probably originated from the colonial days: "There is no wealth in a country deserted by the Jews," referring to the role of Jewish communities in activating the country's economy. Sitting in his studio, he told me: "I should have left." Then added: "But I love Egypt," as if to summarize a love and hate relationship that considers photography and Egypt as one. But perhaps Van-Leo doesn't know that his decision to stay in Egypt has led to the production of an invaluable document of Cairo society in the last fifty years. Besides, it has proved that somewhere in the Arab world, photographers have learned and developed photography as a language and as an art of signification. Van-Leo's work is an experimentation that remains unprecedented in the region. |